The Transformation of Saint Laurent: Anthony Vaccarello’s Impact

How Anthony Vaccarello Made Saint Laurent His Own: Honoring the Past and Defying Tradition

The Challenge of Taking Over a Legendary Fashion House

Imagine being Anthony Vaccarello in 2016, a reserved and relatively untested fashion designer from Belgium, when you are hired as the new creative director of Saint Laurent, a half-century-old, billion-dollar French fashion house. In this position, Vaccarello had to navigate the weighty legacy of the brand’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent, as well as the influence of his more immediate predecessor, Hedi Slimane. Both had left their own indelible marks on the storied brand. Vaccarello’s initial reaction upon getting the job was a mix of deservingness and uncertainty. He knew he had to honor the past while also making his own mark.

Carrying Forward the Legacy and Breaking New Ground

To succeed at Saint Laurent, Vaccarello had to reinterpret the brand’s designs and carry on the legacy of Slimane, who had attracted a new generation of customers with his androgynous silhouettes and biker jackets. Vaccarello recognized that to make his mark, he would have to both honor and defy his fashion predecessors. He had to carefully navigate the delicate balance between respecting the brand’s heritage and pushing the boundaries of what Saint Laurent could be.

Anthony Vaccarello’s Evolution as a Designer

In the early days of his tenure at Saint Laurent, Vaccarello felt unsure of himself and made some pieces that he now considers too extreme. However, over time, he began to evolve as a designer. His minimalistic aesthetic, previously honed at Versus, started to shine through. Donatella Versace, who had hired Vaccarello to oversee her diffusion line, admired his ability to create simple yet sexy clothes. Vaccarello’s designs at Saint Laurent became powerful expressions of femininity, with women who were never preyed upon but always powerful.

The Journey of Anthony Vaccarello: From Modest Beginnings to Leading a Fashion Empire

A Childhood Filled with Ambition

Vaccarello’s ambition for a bigger life stemmed from his childhood in Belgium. He grew up with Sicilian immigrant parents and was exposed to museums and classical music, perhaps as a response to his parents’ own modest upbringing. As a gay boy in the 1990s, Vaccarello found inspiration in Madonna and MTV, which introduced him to the world of fashion and style.

The Path to Fashion

Fashion initially didn’t seem like a viable career choice for Vaccarello. He enrolled in Belgian law school but found himself in a period of sustained depression. It was during this time that he realized his passion for fashion and eventually mustered the courage to share his aspirations with his parents. With their support, he pursued studies in sculpture and later attended La Cambre in Brussels.

Collaboration and Success

Vaccarello’s career gained momentum when he collaborated with his design partner and now-husband, Arnaud Michaux. Their working relationship was compared to a “wonderfully profound stew” in which Vaccarello provided the look and Michaux added the taste. Vaccarello’s talent caught the attention of Karl Lagerfeld, who offered him a position at Fendi. He then went on to create his eponymous label and caught the eye of Donatella Versace.

The Evolution of Saint Laurent under Anthony Vaccarello

From Uncertain Beginnings to Coherent Expressions

Vaccarello’s debut at Saint Laurent wasn’t initially met with the same rapturous reception as Yves Saint Laurent’s debut for Dior. However, Vaccarello persisted and slowly found his own voice within the brand. He absorbed feedback and criticism while staying true to his own definition of beauty. Over time, his collections became more refined and coherent expressions of modern glamour and fetish.

Collaborations with Filmmakers

Vaccarello’s affinity for film and cinema has greatly influenced his work at Saint Laurent. He has collaborated with renowned directors such as Jim Jarmusch and Gaspar Noé to create short films that showcase his collections. These films, reminiscent of moody and elegant mood pieces, allow Vaccarello to create his own world and further blur the boundaries between fashion and film.

Anthony Vaccarello’s Impact on Saint Laurent and the Fashion Industry

Celebrating Real Clothes and Making a Mark

Vaccarello’s ability to create real clothes that are both wearable and glamorous sets him apart from many of his contemporaries in the fashion industry. He has struck a delicate balance between spectacle and wearability, ensuring that his designs are not only admired on the runway but also desired by consumers.

A New Generation of Designers

Vaccarello’s success at Saint Laurent, along with the achievements of other designers like Tom Ford, signals a shift in the fashion industry. Gone are the days of larger-than-life designers who embody their own aesthetic. Instead, the focus is on creating clothes that resonate with consumers while maintaining a sense of artistic integrity. Vaccarello’s ability to navigate this new landscape has cemented his place as one of the industry’s leading designers.

Editorial: The Legacy and Innovation of Anthony Vaccarello and Saint Laurent

The journey of Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent is a testament to the power of honoring the past while pushing the boundaries of tradition. His ability to reinterpret and pay homage to the house’s legacy has breathed new life into the brand. Vaccarello has proven that it is possible to build on the work of fashion icons while still creating something innovative and unique.

Vaccarello’s focus on creating real clothes that are both wearable and glamorous sets him apart from many contemporary designers. In an industry increasingly obsessed with spectacle, his commitment to craftsmanship and design is refreshing. Vaccarello’s impact goes beyond the fashion industry; his collaborations with filmmakers demonstrate the blurring of boundaries between fashion and film.

The success of Vaccarello and other designers who prioritize wearable and desirable clothes marks a shift in the fashion industry. Designers no longer have to be larger-than-life figures embodying their own aesthetic. Instead, the focus is on creating collections that resonate with consumers and reflect the changing desires of contemporary society.

Anthony Vaccarello has proven himself not only as a talented designer but also as a visionary leader in the fashion industry. His ability to honor the past and defy tradition while creating a coherent and distinctive vision for Saint Laurent is a testament to his skill and creativity. Vaccarello’s legacy will continue to shape the brand and inspire future generations of designers.