The Evolution of Saint Laurent: Anthony Vaccarello’s Impact on the Iconic Fashion House

The Evolution of Anthony Vaccarello and his Impact on Saint Laurent

Introduction

Fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello has made a significant impact on the iconic fashion house, Saint Laurent, since taking over as its creative director in 2016. Vaccarello faced the challenge of honoring the brand’s storied past while also defying it to make his mark. In this article, we will explore Vaccarello’s journey, from his early dreams of living in Paris and making clothes to his current position as the head of one of the most revered fashion houses in the world. We will discuss the influence of previous creative directors, the challenges he faced, his evolving style, and his role in shaping the future of the brand.

The Legacy of Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent is a billion-dollar French fashion house with a rich history, thanks to its founder, Yves Saint Laurent. Yves Saint Laurent revolutionized the modern woman’s wardrobe with iconic designs such as the Le Smoking tuxedo for women. The brand has been led by other notable figures, including Hedi Slimane, Alber Elbaz, Tom Ford, and Stefano Pilati. Each creative director left their own mark on the brand, adding to its legacy and influence.

Vaccarello’s Early Days

Anthony Vaccarello, a reserved and relatively untested fashion designer from Belgium, was hired as the creative director of Saint Laurent at the age of 34 in 2016. Vaccarello had always dreamt of living in Paris and making clothes, and he managed to turn these dreams into reality. His initial reaction to the job was a mix of confidence and uncertainty, as he pondered how to honor the past of Saint Laurent while also bringing his own vision to the brand.

Engaging with the Legacy of Hedi Slimane

Vaccarello soon realized that to succeed at Saint Laurent, he needed to engage with the legacy of his predecessor, Hedi Slimane. Slimane had made dramatic changes to the brand, dropping “Yves” from the name, changing the logo, and reintroducing haute couture. Vaccarello was expected to continue the torch for Slimane’s androgynous silhouettes and biker jackets that had attracted a new generation of customers. This presented a significant challenge for Vaccarello, as he needed to reinterpret Saint Laurent’s designs while also making his own mark on the brand.

A Shift in Vaccarello’s Approach

In the early days of Vaccarello’s tenure at Saint Laurent, his designs received mixed reviews. He was criticized for creating pieces that were seen as too vulgar or too sexy. However, Vaccarello’s evolution as a designer became more apparent over time. Donatella Versace, who had hired Vaccarello to oversee her diffusion line Versus, admired his ability to create simple but sexy clothes. Vaccarello’s designs captured a sense of power and strength in women, attracting a loyal following.

Making a Statement with Coherent Expressions

In recent seasons, Vaccarello has developed a coherent expression of glamour and fetish in his designs. He draws inspiration from films and creates characters before developing garments. His runway shows have become cinematic spectacles, staged in unique locations, and often feel more like films than fashion shows. Vaccarello’s collections have been praised for their coherence and wearability, standing out in an industry that sometimes prioritizes spectacle over practicality.

Vaccarello’s Personal Journey

Vaccarello’s journey to becoming the creative director of Saint Laurent started in his early years in Brussels, Belgium. Raised by Sicilian immigrants, he developed a love for fashion and art. Vaccarello’s education in fashion was unconventional, as he initially studied law before finding his passion in sculpture. He met his husband and design partner, Arnaud Michaux, during his time at school. Their collaboration has been described as a “wonderfully profound stew,” with Vaccarello responsible for the look and Michaux for the taste.

Recognizing His Potential in Fashion

Vaccarello’s talent for fashion was recognized when he received a call from Karl Lagerfeld, offering him a position at Fendi’s fur workshop in Rome. Vaccarello later created his own label, Anthony Vaccarello, which gained attention and won critical acclaim. He caught the attention of Donatella Versace, who eventually hired him to work for Versus. Vaccarello’s success led to the pivotal moment when he was offered the creative director position at Saint Laurent.

Taking on the Challenge of Saint Laurent

Despite his initial uncertainty, Vaccarello accepted the challenge of becoming the creative director of Saint Laurent. He discontinued his own label to fully focus on his role at the iconic fashion house. Vaccarello’s debut collection for Saint Laurent was met with mixed reviews, but he quickly found his footing and began to develop his own distinct style. He incorporated elements from the brand’s past while also infusing his designs with his unique vision.

The Impact of Vaccarello’s Vision

Vaccarello’s impact on Saint Laurent has been undeniable. He has managed to strike a balance between honoring the brand’s heritage and pushing it forward into the future. His collections have been praised for their ability to translate high fashion into wearable garments. Vaccarello’s focus on coherent expressions of glamour and power has resonated with both loyal Saint Laurent customers and a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.

A Role in Film and Culture

Vaccarello has expanded Saint Laurent’s presence in the world of cinema. He has collaborated with acclaimed directors such as Jim Jarmusch and Gaspar Noé to create films that showcase his collections and the brand’s aesthetic. Vaccarello’s passion for film and culture has become intertwined with his work as a fashion designer, further solidifying Saint Laurent’s position as a cultural influence.

A Personal Transformation

As Vaccarello’s career has progressed, he has undergone a personal transformation. He now has the composure of someone who has successfully navigated the challenges of being the creative director of such an iconic brand. Vaccarello’s work has become more straightforward, and he compromises less in his designs. The birth of his son, Luca, has also had a profound impact on his creativity, allowing him to focus on a unified vision for Saint Laurent.

The Future of Saint Laurent under Vaccarello’s Direction

Vaccarello’s success at Saint Laurent has positioned him as a key figure in shaping the brand’s future. His ability to bring together elements of the past while infusing his unique vision has resonated with customers and critics alike. As he continues to evolve as a designer and push the boundaries of glamour and power, it is expected that Vaccarello will continue to make a lasting impact on Saint Laurent and the fashion industry as a whole.